We spent 3 days down town Papeete. Our new crew arrived. Keith, John, Thomas & Barbara. We kept busy getting ready for sea. Several lines replaced and the refrigeration units recharged. This hot weather is hard on things. Refrigeration units are are running 24 hours and using a lot of power.

 

It is expensive down here! A small can of refrigerant costing $8.00 in Hilo is $50.00 here. Food is extremely expensive a orange $2.00 and celery stalk $8.00. The only things cheap are baguettes', potatoes and carrots as they are subsidized by the government.

 

We plan to depart Cooks bay around late morning and set for the NW bay for a final visit with the Stingrays and the sharks. We have no email this trip so our  updates will be done over the radio and and forwarded to Lee our Webmaster.

Left Raiatea early Sunday and tried to sail to Moorea. Slow going and sloppy seas so not to much sailing this trip. Arrived in Cooks Bay early Monday morning still in the dark. Made it in with the aid of radar and anchored right in the middle of the bay. 

 

Later in the day the French customs boat came in checking paperwork. We did miss a piece of essential paperwork and where held up to get this resolved. Apparently the ships agent forgot to give us this and we managed to get in over email and printed it out onboard. This satisfied the officials and we where free to go. Dealing with officialdom is always a dance but sometime a bit frustrating. 

 

Mar 24

Friend of ours tipped us off at a Ray feeding spot and we took a very long dinghy ride to the NW corner of Moorea. Well worth the trip as when we got in the water we where surrounded by 7 black tip reef sharks waiting for us.  Than the rays came in from all sides. So much happening we jumped back in the boat. Than things settled and we found the sharks never got closer than 20' or so but the rays are climbing all over you if you let them. So we choose to feed them from inside the dinghy and they are piling up 3 thick to get a piece of tuna. Great fun, well worth the effort going out there. 

 

Yesterday made the trip back to Tahiti and are anchored off the marina amongst many local boats. The French like there metal boats are there are lots of them. Matter of fact the few cruise boats we met where all steel.  German and Dutch.

 

Leigh from the harbour Chandler left to go home yesterday. Dropped him off at the marina and he took a taxi to the airport. We plan to go tomorrow down town to the dock so we can clean up and get ready for our next passage.  

Left Roger in the tropical paradise of Huahini. Set course for Tahaa where we arrived around noon. Entered the pass and anchored next to the Pearl farm. There we took the tour and were shown how black pearls are produced. Very informative and interesting. It takes a lot to get a nice black pearl!

 

Then off to the anchorage where we were the second boat till the Moorings fleet come in with 6 or 7 boats. The reefs where much damaged by the cyclone from a month ago and the ocean floor is littered with small coral branches. 

 

Had a easy night with only a few drops of rain. Most nights we get a few showers and we have to get up closing hatches, than open them again when it stops. failing to do so makes it very warm in the boat and with a fresh breeze blowing through it is comfortable. 

 

This morning we repaired a few things on the boat. Some sail slugs where undone, The dinghy was limp and put in a new product to seal a small leak. A winch was sticky etc. Did a lot in little time than off to Raatea. Anchored of the main town and went ashore for a look. A very small place and life is very slow done here. The main thing today the native canoe races. Fun to watch these guys are fast.

 

A rough passage overnight brought us to Huahini. We entered the pass without problems. The seas where lumpy mainly on account of a weather system following us all the the way over give us constant shifting winds and rain. The seas where rough on account of the Cyclone who played havoc in Fiji a few days ago. We proceeded to the South anchorage but after a few hours noticed the swell increasing and giving us at times 5' waves inside the reef. This was the swell from the Cyclone coming over the reef and pumping so much water inside that the water level increase 2' above normal levels. The current where running very strong through the passes. We could see that on the beach some of the locals had difficulties keeping the water off their porches as they only live a few feet above sea level. So decide to leave to the central lagoon an almost PNW looking lake. There it was calm and we had a great night.

 

This morning we moved the boat to Fare the main town and all together rented a car. This is a great way to see the Island. Interesting enough and much cleaner than any of the other Island we seen so far. 

 

Roger fell in love with the place and decide to stay here. Tomorrow morning we are proceeding to Raiatea & Tahaa.

Arrived yesterday afternoon after a 3 hour trip from Tahiti. It was rough between the Islands and we motored most of it as the wind was fickled. A strong current between the island kicked up the swell and it was lumpy.

 

The reef entrance was easy and once inside it is absolutely calm. This is one of these anchorages every sailors should have seen at least once. Captain Cook anchored here and our eyes see the same he seen years ago. The bay is still not too developed and overall we cannot say that the island is not very busy with tourist. Matter of fact a local told us that the tourist numbers this year are at 1960 levels.

 

The bay is wonderful and is surrounded from 3 sides with very jagged mountain peaks totally covered with foliage and trees. A few patches of small land where someone's is farming, mainly pineapples and root vegetable. The water is clear and we have been swimming many times to cool down. Roger and Lee are onshore checking out the places.

 

Tonight we plan to sail away for a overnight passage to Huahine.

First thing this morning we visited the Sunday morning market the biggest of the week. It starts at 0500 hrs and by 0900 hrs it is over. The locals visit the market in droves and cars clog the side walks, parking everywhere including one lane of the road. Boxing in other vehicles, complete chaos.

 

Than many go to church. We visited the protestant church and sat in and enjoyed the singing tremendously. Women and men sitting separate and the ladies wear the fanciest hats you ever seen. The singing is fit for heaven as it is all in perfect harmony. Some song are sung by all but others by different groups within the church almost like competing for the best songs. What a great experience.

 

We moved to the anchorage off the yacht club. There are many boats but all locals as we did not see other cruising yachts yet expect a Dutch boat at the dock. Roger rented a car yesterday and drove around the island. He reported a rather dirty island with garbage every where. We seen in Papeete to that only the waterfront is kept clean but the locals throw everything they have in there hands on the street. Such a paradise but so little care.

 

We checked out a lead on a wreck of a Catalina aircraft laying with the reef. not much left and to deep for snorkeling. The water is crystal clear inside the reef. Did not cool down much, you can stay in the water for hours without any effects of hypothermia. Tomorrow Leigh would like to check out the Marine store and then off to Moorea and Captain Cook anchorage.

We arrived in Papeete entrance just dawn. We sailed very slow during the night to avoid getting in at night.

A easy entrance and well marked channels. This is a thriving port. Freighter, fish boats, ferries and numerous other crafts from all over the pacific Island. This is the hub of all the island in a 1000 miles around.

 

The waterfront is large and there are numerous spots for yachts to tie up. We tied up to one of the 3 floating barges along the boulevard. This is a busy place. Traffic bumper to bumper and trucks going everywhere.

 

contacted Tahiti yacht services and there agent did the paperwork quick effect for the sum of around $100. This sound like a lot but this includes the security bond. This is a cash deposit required to insure that all who arrive here have the means to go home.

 

So all that out of the way went for a search in town looking for a icom radio technician. Finally found one this morning and on Saturday he is scheduled to have a look and see of we can get sea mail going again.

 

The boys have a great time in town. roger celebrated his birthday yesterday and took us out to eat. After that we walked around town and found a large group of food vendors setting up there stands for the late night food fair. This is neat and looks like a great variety of foods so we need to give it a try tonight.

On sunday we plan to move to a different place and on Monday if we get the radio back will set sail for the outer island and Bora Bora.

The trip from Hilo has been fast and uneventful. In the Northern hemisphere we experienced strong trades, a fast but wet ride. Constant taking on spray and no chance to open the hatches made it stuffy and hot. After passing the equator March 3rd at 0300 in the morning, things eased up and we slowed down. It is warm but with the wind blowing and the hatches open it is comfortable. Twice daily a dip onffthe transom and a fresh shower afterwards helps too.   

 

On March 1st our email system failed. So we have been without email communication since than. We manage to get a hold of Randy on the big island to get a message out saying as much and to get another one via a sailboat in Mexico a 3000 nm away or so. Great thing to have a long-distance radio.

 

We all look forward to arrival planned for Thursday morning at dawn. As this is a new port for us we are not getting in at night and will standout to sea till dawn.

 

Roger and Leigh our crew has been a great blessing as with the 4 of us we have a easy watch schedule. On our way North we have one more crew member so easier yet. We are studying the Tahiti cruising guides to get familiar with the area. Yesterday afternoon we passed the atoll of Tawaiva. This is the Northwesterly corner of the Tuomotas Island group. A low laying atoll ringed with palm trees  only a few feet above the water. It looked like there are people there as evidence of the smoke raising up in air.

 

The water is crystal clear 100' or more. The temp hovering about 30C. Yesterday afternoon we lost our wind and are motoring ever since with a few short sails in between. It has been squally and the wind is all over and then gone. This morning Joanne and me stood in the pouring rain on deck enjoying the fresh warm water. It is so clean and soft, great fun.

 

Tomorrow will be a big day as we need to clear in and get organized. We hope we can get our email fixed and look forward exploring Papeete.