Nov More

Western Grace is been waltzing in the anchorage with many other boats.( Waltzing is the term used as boats in an anchorage are going in different direction, some are tide rode others are wind rode. As there are strong winds and tides here it makes for interesting situation when boats are getting close together sometimes)

There are very little tourist around. What we see for tourist are Mexican. Many of the large construction sites are now laying idle or proceeding with very small crews as the projects are not getting sold. So this will be a slow winter in the tourist trade.

We have been busy with cleaning etc. One big project was cleaning the standing rigging. It took 10 days a few hours away up in the rig in the bosun's chair. Hard work as it is not easy to hang on, and whenever someone comes by making a wake it is rock and roll.

Yesterday attended the Thanks giving dinner with the church group at Cross roads. About 50 people there and everyone had to bring a salad or dessert. Turkey's where supplied by Casa Buena a local bed & breakfast.

We generally enjoy the slow pace for a while. However we are getting restless and are ready to set sail. A few more days and we will get underway for Mazatlan and beyond.

After dropping off Roger in Cabo on Wednesday morning we stayed the day as there was no favorable wind. A wrong choice as we got pestered by tourist coming by with jet skies throwing large wakes and obnoxious fumes. Well this is Cabo and the youth seem to like it but we rather sit in a anchorage with the birds and the seals.

Thursday morning sunrise we got up and pulled the anchor and set the sails and slowly sailed away from Cabo just as a large cruise ship was arriving. Had a wonderful day a little sailing and lots of sunshine. It was hot and the fish jumping everywhere. Did several dips behind the boat to cool down. Turned out to be a engine day later on and we kept going passed Los Frailles and anchored of Punta Arenas in crystal clear water where we could see the anchor laying on the bottom.

Late at night the wind looked like it was going West and and we got underway again to take advance of free miles. A very slow night but gorgeous. The stars thick and it almost looked like you can grab them. No traffic but a few fisherman's in there pangas. Nice and cool as well. Sailed half way up the Ceralvo Channel, than the wind turned on the nose and we turned on the engine once again.

At dusk got in close to the coast and anchored off in 40' of water of some small beach. A shrimper was operating the whole night close by towing its nets back and forth just a bit farthest out.

Saturday morning we sailed away from the anchor and this time sailed all the way through the San Lorenzo channel and lost the wind just when turning South on the approach to La Paz.

As we worked our way up the well marked channel we stood amazed of the amount of building had gone on in a year or so. Sadly to say that some of the projects are sitting partial finished as the money dried up. A large condo development on the Mogote is half finished and some units sold but the people want there money back according to the news paper. La Paz anchorage full as ever and like every year still a few more boats. Many we have seen before and for excitement the newbie's who are supplying the entertainment.

The weather is ideal. A bit cooler than Cabo but we do not suffer from the cold or the heat. At night just a sheet that all what is needed at this time. The water temp 27C but it should cool very quickly now going towards December. Just as every where the hurricane did give a lot of rain and the dessert is blooming and the hills are still green.

The next few days we are at cleaning, fixing, mending, painting etc. A ship's work is never done and conditions are not to bad to do a few things. Good to keep busy anyways. Tomorrow will try to find a smaller pulley for the shaft alternator. it worked fine but the RPM's a bit to low to keep up with the demand. If we sail hard it almost keeps up. This is good to offset the large draw from the autopilot. That by itself can pull 25 Amps when we are moving

Departed Santa Maria under sail. First agonizing slow but bit by bit the wind picked up. A sizable swell meeting us when we got out in the open. The winds increased steadily and we had a great sail all the way to Cabo harbor.

As soon we got underway we set the fishing line and we hit fish right away. Total 4 mahi, 2 tunas and a mackerel. At that time Joanne ( The admiral) put her foot down and we where banned from fishing. To much for the freezer. So we never got the fish the real hot area, the banks of Todo Santos and English banks. The water temp ideal and we all been swimming several time. If the boat moves faster than 5 Kts a real struggle to hold on. With to much speed you will need two hands to hold and you will need another to hold your swimming trunks from disappearing. Real interesting.

Sailed right around the Los Arcos into the Cabo anchorage. Then we had to use the engine for 10 minutes to get positioned to anchor. To much boats as the Baha fleet was in and we need a bit more room to anchor under sail.

Welcome to Cabo. Jet skies, pangas, Booze cruisers and the loud music off the beach bars. The climate is ideal but it is noisy. Things are getting better at night. Many hotels are empty and unless there is a cruise ship in things are very slow the locals say.

Did a road trip with Roger to Todos Santos on Monday. Nice town but a bit touristy. Stopped along the beach a few places and got to see some awesome big surf coming in.

Dropped the last of the crew of at the Dock on his way home. So we can start in earnest our trip to La Paz. We have lots to do. Mainly cleaning and some maintenance. La Paz is ideal for that as there is no motion to speak of and we can get some painting and varnishing done. Very hot today.

We sailed away early morning from Turtle Bay. Light offshore winds carried us slowly to sea. Off and on we used the engine to get away from shore. Then we sailed till 0215 next morning and lots all winds. We motored till early morning and set sail again.

Mid morning we got our first Mahi Mahi. A small one at that but more than enough for a great meal. The water is getting warmer by the mile. A great swim in the afternoon while hanging on the transom.

Next night the same same. No wind again at midnight and engine on till morning. Than we dug up the old genaker and after struggling at first had a marvelous sail till around 2000 hrs when it exploded and was torn from Leach to luff. Happened before but this time it is gone. Inspected the material and it is UV'ed out. Another good fishing day. This time a large Mahi and enough meat for several meals.

Arrived this morning at 0100 hrs and found anchorage amidst a dozen of other boats, mainly sports fishers. This morning most of them where gone.

We lowered the zodiac and explored into the estuary. The fisherman's huts used in past years sitting largely empty. The hills are green and there are flowers every where. This a result of the recent hurricane coming through. In San Carlos there are reports of extensive damage. This happens occasionally so they are used to dealing with this.

The winds are good today in the bay and we plan to depart for the last 180 Nm to Cabo. There is still a large low brewing South of Acapulco so we keep a eye on it just in case

After our stop at Cedros the winds filled in as expected and we raised anchor and got underway under all sails. The winds where light and the seas sloppy making for difficult conditions. To much motion and not enough wind. The area between Cedros and turtle bay is almost always sloppy and the best condition are normally west of the Island.

On and off we sailed and by night fall found ourself's just at the Southern tip of Isla Navidad. The chart looked like it could be a feasible anchorage. So we anchored and had supper. Conditions where choppy and after we had our meal decided to proceed as it was going to be a rough night.

Arrived at 22.30 at Turtle Bay. The bay was filled with the Baha fleet and we figure about 150 boats at anchor. Picked up a lobster trap around the rudder. This happened before a few years ago.

By morning we where greeted by be sunshine, Sea lions and Dolphins swimming around. The Baha fleet was slowly getting underway soon as it was light as the winds where favorable. The official start was 1100 hours but be that time half the fleet was gone. A few hours later only a few boats left in the bay including 3 Baha stragglers. After we cut the trap free we moved closer to the pier so it easier to go ashore. Our crew members went to town and came back later in the afternoon very happy.

This morning we sailed away with the morning breeze and sailed just around the corner. (Thurloe) This is a very lovely bay with a windswept very long beach. We had a great walk on the hard sand. What a magnificent place. The breakers, the sand dunes and the bones of whales on the beach.

Tomorrow morning we plan to move on as the winds are expected to fill in.