Mar 31
Awoke well rested after our adventure the night before. Went over to La
Partita and retrieved our heaving line. 2 Czech's from Czechoslovakia who
reported starting in San Carlos and the one after equipment failure
leading to last nights problems. Had a late start as the winds are still
strong. Explored Isla Partida on the west side. Anchored in El Coronal.
Mar 30
Underway in a honking Northern. Decide not to sail and take it
easy till guest have found there sea legs. Explored West side of the
island and made a few stops. Anchored in Caleta Partida a snug anchorage
between the two islands.
All settled for the night til we received a call for help from the VHF ch
16. As there where several boats in the area waited a bit but non
responded. Made contact and someone in very broken English was calling for
help. La Patita a 31' sailboat boat was drive for the gale with no working
engine and rigging failure so it could nor sail. Decided it was serious
and as we where only 3 miles away to render assistants. Got going in 10
minutes and set course for the vessel. As soon as we where out of the bay
the rolling increased and soon where rolling wild. A few times got over 40
degrees both ways and the noise out of the galley was not good. As we left
with haste and supper was being prepared things we where no sea ready down
there. Arrived at the position and found a small 31' sailboat laying
sideways in 10' steep waves. Had to make several passes at it to get a
line over but thanks to Ron who threw the line made fast and start towing.
Let out 400' of heavy line and start pulling in earnest. The boat rolled
badly and took some big water over the bow but after a while things got
easier. Made it in the anchorage at 2100 hrs and several dinghies took
over the tow and we re anchored.
After we all settled down and where ready to get out the rum to celebrate
had one more look at La Patita only to discover it was on the move again.
Both there dinghy toy anchors where not holding and onces more they where
underway. This time with no clue what was happening. On the Radio for some
help and with a few dingies towed in very shallow water so the anchors
would hold this time for sure.
Good thing we went out there as in another few hours they would have been
toast. All did well and we all agreed we did the right thing. Good we have
a good ship like Western Grace as many a powerboat would have not pulled
this off.
Mar 29
Up with the birds getting some last minute shopping done and get ready for
1000 boarding. Almost made it as our eager crew arrived early and met them
by accident at the dock. Margaret, Beckie, Beth, Ron and Kay our new guest
for the trip. As in usual fashion wasted no time and after a hairy
departure in the strong current proceeded to sea. Ron at the wheel like a
old salt. Set sail outside the harbor but after sailing hard on the wind
for a few hours made tracks for Isla Espiritu Santos and anchored in San
Gabriel anchorage.
Mar 28
Well much has happened since our last
report. The website was down and our apologies for that. Looks like our
website provider is a computer and trying to contact them is like being
stuck in a telephone maze. Same what you get when you try to contact the
tax department when you want your money back. Pretty sure one of these day
we meet the person behind this on the beach some where bragging about his
computer business everyone is sending money to. Well we will change to
another site soon.
It has been a eventful time here in La Paz. Not so much onboard as we are
quietly going about our work and slowly getting things done. But mainly
what is happening around us. Last week we heard a call on the VHF radio
around 2100 hrs or so that a boat is on fire. Immediately graphed a few
pails, the portable radio and a few fire extinguishers and was underway in
less than 2 minutes in the zodiac. No trouble finding the boat. "Shelly B"
A small Columbia 28 sailboat. Things looked grim and the boat was engulfed
from stem to stern. Nothing to be done that watch and make sure it did not
start drifting like a fire ship through the anchorage. The Mexican navy
came on the scene and tried to extinguish the fire but could not get there
pump going, even trying for 1.5 hours. The boat burned furious and small
explosion could be heard. The fiberglass was burning to the water line.
The owner arrived later a young guy from Port Townsend by the name of
Brian. He could stand it only so long and some one took him to stay on
another boat. He had all he had in the boat and only $20.00 and his
drivers license in his pocket. No insurance at all as most cruiser. At
0200 it finally sunk at anchor.
The next day we went for a work party onshore doing some volunteer work
with the church building a house for a poor single mother. Brian was there
just to keep himself sane.
After the work was done all went back to Casa Bueno the base we had all
our tools etc. But what happened during the day was remarkable. A group of
cruiser organized buying a identical replacement boat from a local.
Without telling him what was going on they brought him to the dock and to
his new boat. This all in 24 hours. Further gifts from local business and
a benefit action have now put him back on his feet.
So the community looks after his own down here.
Mar 26
Mahikiki a 40 some steel sailboat ended up on the beach trying to tow the
smaller boat off. Just at high tide for the next few weeks and no chance
of getting close to the same water next tide. In the morning when we woke
up there she was.
Took the zodiac over and talked to the owner. As high tide was not
expected till 2000 hrs he had a long day ahead. Devised a plan to get him
off under own power by setting a stern and bow anchor out to seaward.
Then rig a very long line with a heavy anchor through a block near the
masthead to heel the boat to reduce draft. As night came near start
hauling on the anchors and lines and slowly heeled her over and with the
help of one zodiac and her own engine got her off.
That was exciting and after mooring the vessel on a buoy everyone was now
concentrating on getting the small boat off the beach. It was only 5000
lbs and the consensus was that should be a breeze. Not so and with
several people in the water trying to push and two zodiac's pulling no go.
Then plan B came into play and a small trawler who was nearby hooked on to
it and after a few runs got it off. So everyone is back floating at least
for now.
Tomorrow we are in the marina to get ready for our next trip. Should be
exiting going in the sea up to Loretta. Than to Cabo and April 16 for
Honolulu. Still berths available!
Mar 25
A small 21' sailboat broke loose from the mooring and stranded not to far
from us. We did not know it was a accident as it looks like it was put
there on purpose to clean the bottom.
Mar 17
It has been warm the last few days. Yesterday we put the harbor awning
over the boat to keep the sun off. This makes a enormous difference as the
wind blows underneath it and it keeps it much cooler.
Made a few trips in to town. This place is changing fast. Building
everywhere and looks like there is lots of work.
But some things seem to never change. Early morning the iceman come by and
drop off large blocks of ice on the sidewalk in front of the store who
ordered them. Or the noise of the road club. This is a notorious loud
drinking establishment on the beach and when there is something going on
it start real early like midnight and goes till 0500 hrs or so. Music so
loud it carries for miles. Well any way glad to be back.
Mar 13
Anchor up at 0800 hrs and set course for La Paz. The entrance to the
harbor is a long way and took about 2 hours to get to the anchorage. 1000
hrs secure at anchor with 15 fathoms of chains and the anchor set deep.
Back to the La Paz waltz. Where due to conflicting strong tides and strong
wind boats are waltzing at anchor meaning that some are tide rode others
are wind rode. So one faces East other West and none behaves the same way.
So a lot of room is needed to stay out of each others way.
Reported arrival to the port captain by radio ( in Spanish) and was
delighted that he understood. (We think)
Well back in La Paz. A busy week ahead. The radio is buzzing with familiar
names and the Marina's are almost full. A Fair number of boats at anchor
as well.
Changed oil and cleaned bilges. Worked on checking bilge pumps . Two days
job.
Then up the mast checking rigging, lights stays etc. The wind instruments
where acting up and had to take the masthead assembly down oil it up and
recalibrate. That was two trips up the mast and another morning gone.
Stated repairs on the bow where the anchor has damage it a bit and put on
a few layers of epoxy fillers to fair it all in.
Tuned the outboard and it runs much better now. Dolphins swimming around
the boat.
Mar 12
Had a great night. No rolling and we
lay almost still after months of rolling. Anchor up at 0800 hrs and sailed
away from the anchor. Only winds for 2 hours and had to turn the engine
on. Proceeded through Lorenzo channel and found anchorage at Puerto
Ballendra. ( Schooner Cove) This is one of the bays just North of La Paz.
Dove the boat and cleaned some more bottom and scrubbed the prop. Water
still cool.
Tomorrow move into town and have to change oil on the engines.
Mar 11
Arrived late afternoon at the North tip of Isla Ceralvo. Took
anchorage on the west side near the tip of the island. Took the Zodiac to
the small beach and explored the canyon up the mountain, Very striking
colors and absolute solitude. No one in miles. Water very clear and air is
very dry.
Mar 11
Sailed for 1 hour during the night
than flat calm. Amazing sky with millions of stars. Water alive with
bioluminescent emitting creatures. Western Grace is lighted up like
daylight in the water around us and we leave a light trail 100 yards in
our wake. What a night not a breath of wind. Ocean smooth.
At daylight still no wind. Had the Genoa up for a few hours to catch some
wind. At 1200 hrs 25 nm to go to Ceralvo where we will seek anchorage for
the night.
Mar 10
Set out in earnest for Ceralvo and turned on the engine and set the
main sail.
Flat calm with a bit of Southerly in the afternoon gives us some boost
with all sail up. This only lasted till dark than winds light again.
Mar 9
0730 sailed away in light land breeze. 0900 hrs turned on engine and set
course for Ceralvo channel 200 Nm away at 291 T. Wind picked up and start
sailing. However winds is backing and forcing us more North. In the
afternoon it became apparent that the best we could do is making some
northing and at night fail still very close to shore. Decide to anchor off
the coast once more. 2030 at anchor of Punta Piaxtla in 35' water.
Mar 8
Gathered our strength and decide to set out. Course for Mazathlan. Motor
sailed all day and got a good boost from the wind but not enough to sail
all. Mahi on the fishing line but lost it before we could recover it. Mid
afternoon lots of ray activity. Jumping all around us.
2300 hrs Anchored of the beach 8 miles south of Mazathlan in 35' water.
Mar 7
Decided to stay for the day as we felt tired. Fisherman ended up with a
half flat of Cola.
Mar 6
Depart Punta De Mita at 0100 hrs as the land breeze has build to 8 Kts and
we hope we can sail. 0230 Cleared all around the nasty reefs and set
course almost due North to Isla Isabela our first possible stop.
No wind to sail by so had to use the engine all the way although used the
sails off and on to get a bit of wind help. Still a bit of a swell running
and bow dives in once in a while but no big punches.
Arrived 1400 hrs at the island to discover several boats and the South
anchorage to crowded. So anchored on the East side a bit of the stacks in
45' water. Light swell.
Scraped some on the bottom as the barnacles never rest. Water temp OK.
Mar 5
Underway at 0900 hrs and set for PV
about 2 hours away. This is the first time we used the engine for any time
at all during the week. But then it is early and sea breeze has not set
in Flat calm. Does not look good for the J 24 world championship races
starting this afternoon.
Arrived PV 1100 hrs at the fuel dock and Ron did picture perfect docking
alongside.
Here we say our farewells and have to go separate ways. It was good to
sail with you and that our course may cross again.
Took on 400 liters of diesel for our trip to La Paz. Departed for La Cruz
1130. Found wind and had a great sail. Arrived 1400 hrs and a quick trip
to port captain to get clearance and some groceries. Underway 1500 hrs
sailing to Punta De Mita. Sailed till 1900 hrs and motored the last few
miles. At anchor 1930.
Mar 4 1000 hrs
depart Punta de Mita in search for whales. Slowly motored out to the
islands and than got a few sighting. Set sail as breeze start filling in.
Managed to see a few whales but not very close. Observed ones again that
if Humpbacks are approached by power boats with screaming outboards they
start diving and try avoiding. Despite all regulation regarding whale
watching (at least in the Bay of Banderas) whales get harassed and chased
by a armada of boats and trying to move away only to be followed.
Yet when we are under sail without echo sounder going they often come over
to have a look. Humpbacks are very curious and social animals and very
close encounters are possible but this will take time. To go whale
watching and expect to get close in 15 minutes you have to act like the
whale watch boats do down here. But spending a hour or more will gain the
there trust and a set you up for a great encounter. Frustrating to work on
this and have a power boat coming out of nowhere and pursuing and we have
to move on.
Winds filled in ones again and sailed to La crux anchorage. sailed in
under full sail and reefed sails and brought her into the wind and set
anchor all in one smooth operation. Good work all! Last night for Ron &
Gail.
Mar 3
Big swell overnight but not to uncomfortable. Ron & John swim ashore in
the morning while waiting for the sea breeze to fill in. Underway in light
winds and slowly increasing to 20 Kts close to Punta Mita. Great sailing.
Just as it was getting late a whale broaching and given a show not to far
away but no time to have a look. At anchor Punta De Mita 1830 hrs. Whale
sightings way down this week.
Mar 2
Rough night. Not much sleep for the skipper. Only cat naps to keep anchor
watch. Happily pulled out early in search of more good sailing and
adventure. Sure enough after leaving this windy place had light winds
later in the day. Sailed slowly into Boca De Tomathlan. Another fancy
anchoring job and securely moored at 1800 hrs. Another great night
watching all what is happening onshore.
Mar 1
Onshore expedition to visit the birds and explore the caves. Made a decent
landing ( some guest have all the luck) After crawling around and close
encounters with the birds back onboard at 1215 hrs. Gail suffered scrapes.
Set sail for Cabo Coriente. Fair winds as this is normally a rough area.
Sailed to explore a new cove Los Corrales. We never been here before and
the sailing directions give had some conflict so made us uneasy. However
as it was getting late and as we got closer could see the possibilities
and worked our way in. Just as the wind start increasing to well over 20
Kts. So anchored of the small town ( 6 houses) After having enjoyed
watching town live for a while decide to change to get more shelter for
the night and moved to the West lobe of the cove. tight anchorage and
partial sheltered from the swell and winds. Thank goodness for the big
anchors as without them we would be once again in trouble. Held anchor
watch during the night as swells and winds are steady.
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