Moving along slowly as the trades have gone light as expected. Good things the seas have laid down as well so we having a nice ride. Yesterday a full sunny day, what a difference that makes. Jason did his noon shot and gets better every day. No need for GPS, while nice to have.

A little boat a bit ahead of us is walking away from us in these light winds. We initially closed in on them and gained a couple hundred miles but in this lights stuff we are slower. A week ago when we had better winds they where proceeding under reduced sails and complaining about the sea state, now is it our turn. Things look up however ( on the grib files) as the trades are starting to freshen the next few days.

Crew all doing fine and Jerry may finish his book before arriving in Honolulu. No additional fish but last night when Jason pulled in the line had a strike scaring the heck out of them. It is better to pull the lines at night to avoid using to much gear. At night the sharks are feeding and this probably has to do with it.

Joanne is getting spring fever so the crew has to suffer another day of cleaning.
 

April 28

All is well. Friday morning we caught a good size fish an all hands affair.   A 42" Mahi Mahi about 20 lbs. Jerry fought it in and John on the transom with the gaff hook. Joanne ready with the booze bottle. No not for the fisherman but for the fish. One good shot of whiskey down its gills and is game over. Lucky the fish has been hanging behind the boat for a while and made it easy. If they are fresh it is a real fight, all muscle and mean.

No trouble and soon it was gaffed and hung upside down by the tail. Like to keep it on the transom to keep the mess contained. 10 minutes later we had two large fillets of pure fresh fish without any bones. Could not wait and had the BBQ fired up and tried a piece forthwith. Nothing fresher than that.

The wind has a bit more Easting now and in order to keep moving and both sails full are forced more North that we want to. So in order to keep around 19 N Gybed on a port tack and get some Southing in. This is not the best for making Westing but it beats trying to force the boat strait downwind. It also keep the boat from rolling, so it is easier on crew and ship.
Over cast almost whole day. When are we getting the Sun?

Saturday. Gybed during the night as the wind veered to far East. Ran for 6 hours on a Port tack and Joanne called early morning to go back on the old course. While on deck noticed the autopilot( Otto Von Helm) making groaning sounds and knew a problem is brewing. Soon as we were done on deck started hand steering and concluded that at least the steering is all well. Jerry  took the helm and Joanne & John dove in to the engine room and disassembled the auto pilot motor. Not a easy task in rolling conditions. Tools sliding all over the engine room plate and a few managed to jump in the bilges. It is said that all tools eventually will end up there give enough time. This is true as every time we clean the bilges we find some formless heap of material made out of some corroded and fused tools.

Found the problem to be a melted wire on a connection block inside the motor assemble.  A easy fix and 1 hr later all is running well again.

Still trying to catch up with "Anna" a small 33' sailboat who started a few days earlier than us but we not closing the gap very fast. The winds are not strong enough to show what the boat can do. They are reporting running with reefed sail while we have all up and wish for more winds. Getting closer should overtake tomorrow.

Another overcast day. This is the worsted we ever seen it. Today cleaning day.
 

April 26

Made good progress yesterday and during the night. Did some great  sailing in the afternoon as the wind picked up to the mid 20 KTS and we moved along at something like 8 Kts. The seas build up a bit and we took some water on deck ones in a while.

Yesterday we washed some bedding as it was a great day for doing that. Within one hour on the line laundry was dry in the stiff breeze. We must have looked like a Chinese laundry but no one in sight so who cares. Did not see anything for a long time now.

Yesterday morning had our first very light rain squall did not amount to anything but reminded us of the things laying ahead. Sometime we get these every few hours and have to reef in time if there is lots of wind and shake the reefs after they pass trough. To much work.

Everyone is well but no one is very active as we are settled down for the duration. Tonight we should be past the halfway point.

Big news is Jerry got clobbered by a wave coming on deck and had his hatch a crack open. Never seen a more furlong miserable creature than a Texas admiral. Dried his bedding and before his watch was over at 2200 hrs all was dry and all is well. This happens almost every trip at least once. Temperatures are nice for having fresh air coming in but the seas are unpredictable.

Jason got our noon sight within 12 NM in bad conditions, way to Go!
A new high is forming above Hawaii should give us some more wind.

April 25

Have had decent winds the last few days. No more prolonged periods of lighter winds. Although weather forecast looks for lighter winds ahead in 72 hours. We hope they are wrong as the boys are looking for some exciting sailing in heavy trades.

Our GPS says 1641 NM to go but most likely we will make a few more miles as we may gybe and head South again to stay in decent winds. We have learned that sailing a deep reach with as much sails possible produces a much steadier and faster ride. This means we not always steer the rhumb line and once in a while have to gybe. Yesterday we did this for the first time and made about 35 nm Southing before going back on our SB tack.

Fishing has been the pits lately and we only had two fish jaws on the lines a few days back evidently someone has been at it but a shark probably cleaned it off before we got a look at it.
Still overcast and cool. Had only one real sunny day thus far. Temp are not bad something like around 70 at night and 75 at day time. To cloudy for a noon shot yesterday but we still know where we are despite that.

Joanne is baking a cake despite being thrown around a bit in the galley. Every one is getting used to holding on every second. Meals get served out of large bowls as to not spill any and condiments are rolling around on the table, or laid sideways to keep from flying of.
We eat very well and Jerry and Jason are cleaning up any leftovers.

Most days we have been taking navy a shower. Wet, soap and rinse with the minimal amount of water.   On the Transom when it is warm enough. Than no limit to water as the ocean is full of it, with a fresh water rinse last.

April 23

Another slow night. This seems to be a bit of a pastern that it gets lighter at night and the winds veer more Easterly. Our speed has not been bad but the winds up and down and all over the place making us chasing the wind to keep the boat moving at max efficiency.
Sea very sloppy overnight throwing us around and once in a while hits the wind out of the sail making a spectacular noise. Sometimes it can be very noisy when under sail.

Yesterday had a very sunny day but we are starting of overcast today. Our sextant reading yesterday turned out very nice within 7 miles and getting closer every day.

Crew still sleeping. Jerry  goes around washing the window and the bright work in the morning. Jason checks rigging and the fishing lines.

Overnight on Jason's watch a flying fish landed in the cockpit which made quite a mesh. We have been having them landing on the deck every night almost together with the odd squid.

Almost a week at sea and still 2000 NM to go or so. We are general trying to sail  South by West but start coming up more as the wind rotates more East.

Yesterday found a piece of Jaw bone of a fish on our lure so we had a strike at least.

Joanne is in cleaning mode today

April 22

Had a slow night as the wind dropped to 5-6 Kts at times and the seas where contused throwing us around in the light winds. If the winds are light the sails slap with a tremendous noise and make the whole boat shudder.

As soon there is enough wind to steady the boat its get quiet and we start moving again. Woke up this morning  and we are moving again at 5-6 Kts. The boats ahead of us report good progress in 20-25 Kts winds. This is maddening as we are just out of reach of the stronger winds and they stay just out of reach. So is the way of ocean passages. Just like real estate Location, Location and location is everything.

Another overcast sky but some small patches of light blue. Overnight observed the Southern Cross low on the Southern horizon. Look forward to try to do another noon sight to practice our skills.
All is routine right now. Have not seen anything for the last two days but water, sea and sky.
Highlights of the day are the radio calls with summer passage and some of the other boats. As well as the meals and happy hour as we are allowed one small drink a day to be sipped on for a long time.

Making steady progress and by last years figures are still ahead.
 

April 21

Western Grace is now making steady Westing. The swells are down a bit and far apart making a fantastic ride. We are rolling a bit but and we have to hold on but not any thing bad.

The bioluminescent light up the seas around the hull making it fantastic to watch. The winds are steady this night for the firsts time since we left Cabo. The vessel ahead of us are still walking away as they have much stronger winds.  

Our daily radio chats with "Pacifica, Andiago, Anna and Cuttroat" inform us conditions ahead. They are all headed for Aloha. Several others are underway to the Marquise's with some stuck in the doldrums between 4N and 2S  with little or no fuel.
The passage to the Marquise's this time a year is getting more challenging as the doldrums are widening and moving West. One boat " Soulsearcher" is reported at 4 N and 130 W without a working engine and has 450 Nm of no wind ahead. So will be a slow one for them.
Luckily these calms are almost unheard of on the passage to Hawaii. The weather is governed by the ever increasing East Pacific high and the trade wind at 15 N.

Everyone is doing fine. We have been taking noon shots and, as we are just beginning with a error of 25 Nm or so. This will go down with practice so in a week or so it should be way closer. The fact we had a very cloudy days and large swells make it nor any easier.

Today is cleaning day and we all taking a shower if we need it or not.

April 18

Almost 3 days out. Everyone is doing fine and no more problems with Mal De Mar. The last two nights have been slow with little wind specially on the late nigh watches.

Jerry and Jason standing watches alone and are in the groove. They doing 7 hours a day with Joanne & John sharing the rest. This works well and after a few days no problem staying awake.

Had a freighter getting close last night but did not need to take any action. Looked like a container vessel heading SE at 24 Kts or so. Came within 1 mile and we noticed that we could see it pitching in the Northerly swell.
 
It has been cool and overcast the last 2 days but this morning the sun is out and it is much warmer already. Have all sail set and proceeding with the wind just forward of the beam at better than 7 Kts. Yesterday noon to noon 108 Nm nothing to brag about but expect to start making speed the further we go west.
There are at least 4 more boats ahead of us going to Hawaii and they report good strong winds the last few days. The course have been set at 255 t to try to get some more southing. Ideally we would like to be somewhere between 17 and 18 north at our most Southerly  point before coming up and set straight for Honolulu.

After releasing our tuna the first day out have had no action on our fishing lines. Even Jason's killer lure is not working. This seems always the case, as soon as we are ready for fish the fish is not biting. Well we have enough carrots, oranges and eggs to last two trips so we are not starving. Matter of fact we are keeping  some exercise going by doing some small chores in the morning. Like cleaning of salt and checking rigging. Looks like today no cleaning as we taking over some wet stuff from time to time.

Well Jerry says hi and will come on watch soon. Thinking of a reef in the main  as the winds is approaching 20 Kts.

April 17
By morning woke up to a cool cloudy day. Very cool as everyone on the radio is complaining about it being to cold all the way up the Baja. Winds are getting lighter and start coming more from the North. All did there watches and found there sea legs.
Did some cleaning on deck as we took over lots of spray yesterday.
Summer passage radio promises good winds in a few days but no they are a bit light.

April 16

Got all provisioned and ready by Sunday night other than fuel and water. AT 0815 pulled up the anchor. At least tried to. In all our cruising and many anchoring never had much problems other than hauling up a fish pen net at Church house in BC. Well nice and stuck. Windlass powering out and put the engine in gear and used the leverage of the boat to make it budge. This worked the bow went down and than popped up.

Ok another problem solved without to much delay but when the anchor came on deck we saw the stock was bend. This is a massive piece of casting so we must have ripped it very hard. So now our Bruce looks not only rusty but is also bent.

Proceeded with Jerry at the wheel to the fuel dock and dropped Joanne off to do the clearance while we hung out to await a fueling slot. All went well and got the fuel and water done around 0930, Then back to anchor while waiting for Joanne to radio for pickup. She was done in  record time and my suspicion of getting an attractive woman getting papers done faster is confirmed again.

So by 1015 anchor up and sailed right out of the bay into a honking Westerly wind. Set course due South for the next 40 miles or so to get away from the Cape and getting into so more organized seas. Had a great start and by nightfall on a course of 185t and 7.5 Kts.
Tuna on the line by nightfall but crew all a bit queasy so let it go.

April 15
Early up and a quick trip up the mast as condition where just right. The wind instrument on the masthead was acting up and as we run the boat by instruments offshore this is crucial to us. Then 3 of us off to the English speaking church for a great service.

Tomorrow morning final paperwork to get clearance and a trip to the fuel dock and we hope to sail away around noon. 2850 Nm to Honolulu.

April 14
Did a shopping run to Costco. In our opinion the most expensive Costco in the world. Our friends Marla & Greg Vroegindewey offered us a ride in there car to bring the groceries back. Then we went back onboard to look after the stores. Then back to a delightful evening with good friends. They took us to dinner at the Margueritavilla restaurant on the waterfront. This is what make the cruising life so special to us. Sharing adventures and stories with people we meet from all over.
Jason our second crew boarding.

April 13
Found wind at 0200 hrs and had a good sail till 0900 hrs and found ourselves 15 miles east of Cabo. Once again turned on the engine and anchored at 1200 hrs off the beach in Cabo.

Jerry got his luggage delivered

April 12
Got going under sail at 0900 hrs. Slow and beating upwind to get around the cape. Sailed all day till 1700 hrs then turned on the engine to make some miles.

April 11

Checked out the marina at 1100. Than steamed to the anchorage of La Paz marina to do some shopping and picking up our next crew member. Beckie was watching us as we pasted by waving her final farewell.
Anchored at 1200 hrs. Our new crew Jerry boarded at 1630 minus luggage lost in transit. Decide to take advantage of the favorable conditions and pulled out at 1800 hrs. Just as we cleared the final buoy the wind picked up and we set sail. A gentle Westerly set in and within a hour we had a honking wind 20 Kts plus. Pitch dark and navigating on previous collected way points made it through the dangerous San Lorenzo channel. At 2000 hrs had a double reefed main and deep reefed Genoa up barreling along at 7-8  kts in 35 Kts of winds. Great sail till midnight when the wind suddenly died to nothing. Motored for 3 hours and anchored of Punta Ventana till light.

April 9 part 2

As with most plans of Mice and Men they go wrong. We planned to have moorage in Marina La Paz but no room at all. Moorage is becoming a big issue in Mexico and despite all the recent space added they are still full.

So anchored oFf the beach and dingied to the dock at Marina La Paz.  Firsts a quick tour of La Paz at twilight and then our guest took us out to dinner. Had a great night and always sad to realize that another trip is over.

The next morning got a spot at Marina Costa Baja on the far side of town a hour away from where we are anchored. This is a brand new Marina just next to the power plant. So our guest disembarked and left us with empty boat. Farewell Beckie, Ron. Kay. Beth & Marguerite may our courses cross again. So good to share the dream and adventure with you.

Hard to work to clean the boat, laundry, charge the batteries shopping etc.

April 9
Left 0920 and explore the East side of Isla Espiritu Santos. Spectacular color rock formations rising up out of the ocean. 1100 anchored at the southern tip where there is a couple mile long beautiful sandy beach. Nice and warm. Crew ashore for last time. Proceed to La Paz this afternoon and will be at anchor of Marina La Paz to night.

April 8
Sailed away but did not last. Start sailing again midway to Los Islottes. Arrived 1315 for another swim with the sea lions. Great fun, lots of small fish.
Took anchorage at East side Partita at caletta Partita. The little sailboat we rescued earlier was still there. Set them up with some advise and a small part in exchange for a taste of there plum brandy. Well 180 proof and one little sip is enough.
Good choice on anchorage as the majority of the fleet got bounced around in the other anchorage.

April 7
Underway heading South in confused seas. Arrived San Everisto at 1540. Explore the town and beach. This is a very small place. Locals getting ready for rooster fight at sunset. A fair amount of locals camping on the beach. Rays jumping everywhere.

April 6
sailed away under gennaker with a very light land breeze. Did not last long and changed to white sail but sailed most of the way to Isla Sta Catalina. Stopped half way up the west side of the island but got overrun by bobos so got out quick. Then found a cove on the south side of the island and shared it with a sport fish boat from Tololobombo. Visited them on the beach where they had a cookout and they came over to the boat later on. We trade fish for Joanne's chocolate cake. Great day.

April 5

Left the anchorage of Los Pargos. just parked off the side of the channel and as it is calm no problem. Whales coming by all day and night.
A local fisherman came by taking orders for Langusta ( Lobster) and was going to deliver in the morning. Came by but no lobster. Told us to get underway and that he will catch up with us 6 miles North. We lost all hope but true to his word a panga came up to us well offshore and 6 langusta.

He came with a scale and we had the price set so just a matter of doing the math. Well not exactly. He needed some fuel and we added in some sodas for his 8 kids? and a bag of tortia chips. We negotiated another lobster for that, so after this trading session all thought we did well. So underway again. Just another sailboat was heading South and stopped at the panga and the whole story started again. His 8 kids and the langusta. Well lots of fun.

Made it up to Aqua Verde and at anchor 1700 hrs.

April 4

Left this morning from Moloko a small fishing town on the Baja. Some local came out this morning with his digital camera which was not working. Thinking us gringo's know everything figered we can fix it. Well we tried but no joy Camera kaput amigo.

Sailed away and had a Genaker run for a few hours than the wind left. Absolutely  calm.

It was getting hot as well. First day we seen this temp this year. Many grey whales migrating south around the Cape. Mothers with calves and small pods. Stopped at Roca Negra for a swim. We all needed to cool down. Dozens of rays jumping high up in the air. A great numbers of mantas as well. Not the large size as we have seen in the bay of Banderas but more like 3' 5' across. This must be juveniles.

Water is getting warmer as we noticed this afternoon. The top 2' of the surface is getting notable warmer.

Have the harbor awning over the cockpit. Everyone is doing well.

April 3

Woke up to a gorgeous sunrise after an absolutely flat calm night. The moon is still up and near full. After breakfast loaded everyone in the Zodiac and set for the mangrove lagoon on San Jose island.

As it was nearly high tide a easy entrance with the flood pushing us in. The lagoon is much different from the ones on the mainland as the water is crystal clear and there is no fresh water mix. So the animal species are pure salt water creatures. Many of the usual sea birds and many species of fish. Found a difference path back to sea  and made our way back to the boat in water so crystal clear it looks like we are floating in space.

Set sail immediately and sailed away from the anchor and sailed for about 1.5 hrs till the winds left us. Just after lunch had a encounter with a humpback whale escorted by a couple dozen of dolphins. A great close meeting with the dolphins leaping way up in the air almost all at the same time. WOW what a show.

Sailed past San Everisto and made our way to Nopolo a very small fishing town with 5 houses or so. Anchored just of the beach.

April 2

Departed from the beach just South of Cabeza Mechuco where we spent the night. A very open place just off the beach but had a calm night anyway. Some of our crew went onshore for a look and some snorkeling before departure. Sailed away from the anchor and did not use the engine all day. Sailed over to Isla Coyote and stopped for a visit. Managed to do some trading (pesos for fish) and continued on after lunch to San Jose island. Sailed to the anchor and had a fabulous afternoon in this gorgeous large bay. Magnificent moonrise. 
 

April 1
Awoke to glassy cam anchorage in El Coronal at Isla Partida. The Norther is gone and the weather forecast is for no strong winds for the next few days. That means most likely not to much sailing but way better than a hauling near gale. Departed 1000 hrs and at anchor off Los Islotos at 1100 hrs. This is the sea lion colony. First a dinghy tour end than a swim with the youngster. Although the water is still cool a great success. Carried on to the main land coast on the Baja side. Sighted a large blue whale but it was on a mission and moving fast. The rock face has a lots of green in it indication copper sulfate deposit.  At anchor off the copper hills at 1600 hrs. Onshore for a look and evidence of mining and exploration every where. The road from La Paz passes by here. Feel sorry for those who have to travel it. Rough.